ANDROGYNOUS FASHION: SEE HOW THE GIRLS WILL BE BOYS
ANDROGYNOUS FASHION;
THE HISTORY OF WOMEN DRESSING LIKE BOYS
Today most people wouldn't bat an eye at a women wearing pants or a bow tie (in the western world). However, it wasn't always this way. In fact, prior to the late 19th and early 20th century, social customs were very strict regarding women’s clothing. Women were expected to wear dresses, underskirts and painfully tight corsets.
In the 1850's, women's rights activist, Amelia Bloomer, started to shake things up. She advocated for women to ditch the tight corsets and heavy petticoats worn under their skirts. Initially inspired from Turkish dress, the wide lose fitting pants worn under a knee length skirt, were aptly named the "Bloomer". The Bloomer became a symbol of women's rights in the early 1850s. Therefore, the was worn by famous feminists, like Susan B Anthony, and Elizabeth Cady Stanton.
WOMEN IN BLOOMERS 1850'S
ANDROGYNOUS FASHION; THE EARLY 20TH CENTURY
Hence in the 1920's, there was another big shift in women’s clothing. At this point women started entering the workforce during WWI and gaining the right to vote. Therefore they had to think more practically about their outfits, and demanded less restrictive, more casual attire. In fact women continued to wear skirts, their clothing became more masculine, looser and sporty.
Of course one of the most influential fashion icons of the 20’s was Coco Chanel. In fact she rebelliously dismissed the feminine styling of her day and embraced androgynous fashion. She accelerated the already growing movement towards female empowerment.Therefore all this paved the way for menswear-inspired clothing. At this point she began designing elegant suits, tweed blazers and simple everyday-wear for women. Similarly she was best known for wearing boyish nautical stripes, trousers, and chunky knit sweaters.
COCO CHANEL
ANDROGYNOUS FASHION; THE 30'S AND 40'S
The 30’s brought menswear-inspired fashion to the forefront, with actresses such as Marlene Dietrich, and Katharine Hepburn sporting suits and bow ties in popular movies.
Left image: Marlene Dietrich. Right image: Katherine Hepburn.
Coco Chanel, Marlene Dietrich and Katharine Hepburn rocked trousers before the 30’s,and throughout the 40's. However, it was really only considered socially acceptable for women to wear pants in specific situations.Therefore, women wore pants for sports or during the wars when they took over many of the men's jobs. With their husbands away at war, women took on what were male dominated roles such as farm or factory work. However, traditional women's attire wasn't appropriate for the more physically demanding work. Therefore, women raided their husbands closets and altered them to fit.
In 1939, Vogue illustrated a woman in a pair of pants on the cover of it's May issue. The editors wrote, "Our new slacks are irreproachably masculine in their tailoring. Moreover, women have made them entirely their own by the colors in which they order them, and their accessories." However, the article goes on to depict when, where and how these slacks may be worn. First Iron Rule is that they are well-cut and well-creased to appear properly ‘feminine’. Furthermore, it stresses the necessity to avoid the ‘mannish accessories’. This characterized the ‘early, experimental days’ of trouser-wearing. So women could be free to wear whatever they wanted as long as they still looked like a Stepford wife.
ANDROGYNOUS FASHION : THE 50'S
After the war ended, women returned to their role as housewife and mother. Therefore, they went back to dresses and skirts. The 50's were subsequently hyper-feminine. In fact 1950's clothing was made to accentuate a women's hips and bust with tight waisted dresses, and curved jackets. However, there were still pockets of women breaking free from the trends. For example, there was a group of women in London called Teddy Girls. These girls rejected the traditional notions of femininity, dressing in jackets, rolled up jeans and flat shoes.
Image of Teddy Girls sourced from PINTEREST
Although there were instances of women wearing men's clothes throughout the 20th century it was still uncommon. Really it wasn’t until the 60's that menswear inspired fashion was no longer considered a rebellious political statement. In the 60's women made large strides toward equality. With the passing of Equal Pay Act and Title VII of the Civil Rights Act, women gained more rights in the workplace. In 1961 Audrey Hepburn wore black capri's in the movie, "Breakfast at Tiffany's". Hence this inspired a new resurgence of women breaking away from traditional feminine clothing.
ANDROGYNOUS FASHION ; THE 70'S
Yves Saint Laurent took menswear-inspired styling to new heights. His “Smoking” Tuxedo Jacket, was hailed as the alternative to the Little Black Dress. As he said himself, “For women, the tuxedo is an indispensable outfit, which they feel comfortable with, so they can be who they are. This is style, not fashion. Fads come and go, style is forever.”
Another influence was credited to the 1977 movie “Annie Hall” starring Diane Keaton, where Diane Keaton’s menswear-clad character donned bowler hats, vests, wide ties and button-up shirts.
ANDROGYNOUS FASHION ; THE 1980'S TIL TODAY
In my opinion the 1980's was all about the power suit ! Of course we know these suits,they included a tailored jacket with large shoulder pads and a knee length skirt or trousers. A recent article about the evolution of the pant suit, stated, "These big shouldered jackets and pants disguised a women's figure. Thus they took the focus off her gender, creating a feeling of authority as the traditional sex roles continued to blur.". At the same point UK prime minister, Margaret Thatcher, always wore a suit. In fact she stated that she was in a man's world, and she had to look the part.
Images of the 1980's power suit sourced from Pinterest
In the last twenty years, “menswear-inspired fashion” has increased in popularity. Showing sculptural shoulders, buttoned vests, plaid patterns, classic fedoras and trench coats. In addition slouchy boyfriend jeans and suit sets. But, until recently it still had a feminine element with cinched waists, addition of ribbons or lace, and pastel colors.
Since the 1960's with the Stonewall riot, and beginning of the LGBTQ movement,we see a visual style of women who identify as gay, butch and non binary. Therefore, through long years of struggle, women are now able to dress as they choose. Certainly, huge leaps forward have happened, however, we still have along way to go.
In fact this trend for menswear-inspired fashion has continued to grow, but there has also been a growing demand for women’s clothing that is masculine without the feminine touches; so no longer just inspired from menswear, instead it is actual menswear designs fitted to the female body. This style has been given many names, but most commonly referred to as androgynous fashion, tomboy style, or menswear-inspired fashion
ANDROGYNOUS FASHION TODAY
This is exactly what I aim to show you here . Since we now drop some strict gender identities girls are much freer to enjoy clothes worn by the boys. In fact there are lines and designers that cater to the androgynous woman. Therefore they drop feminine fitting elements like darts and cinched in waists. In fact they drop all the girly elements no lace , no frills and no pastels.
However, my dears you don't have to be a butch girl to wear male inspired looks . Since, I am well aware that most of my followers are not masculine women , we will find a common ground. In fact, the proliferation of male looks in recent years are shown by the boyfriend jeans, blazers and shirts . So I have chosen some great pieces that I'm sure you'll love without having to be a butch . I also want to make it clear that I hold nothing against butch gals. Since I am a sissy boy I understand the spectrum of gender identity and love all the colors of the rainbow.
ANDROGYNOUS FASHION, AND THE MANY AWESOME WAYS TO LOOK LIKE A BOY
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Raey
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Acne Studios
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Boyfriend Blazer
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Lioness
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Boo Pala R.E.S. Jacket
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AllSaints
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La Fetiche -
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Kenzo
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Canada Goose
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Martine Rose
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MICHAEL Michael Kors
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Levi's
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Anine Bing
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