VANCOUVER FASHION WEEK;
DENZIL MAPFUMO SHOWS US WHERE HIS HEART LIES
The opening of Vancouver Fashion Week on Monday October 7 th, brought the first designer Denzil Mapfumo to the runway. Mapfumo traveled from his home in Portsmouth England to Vancouver for his Canadian debut. Although he expressed nervousness to me, his show went off with out a hitch.
Since, I had reached out to Denzil prior to his arrival I have researched his brand. In my prior post Diversity is the Strength of Vancouver Fashion Week I explored Mapfumo's own diverse background . Mapfumo an immigrant to Great Britain has strong ties to his native Zimbabwe.
Certainly the collection presented at VFW, SS20 titled ‘Brothels & Bottle Stores’ was strongly influenced by the melding of two cultures. In fact, a strong nostalgia for his homeland showed us where his heart lies, "If I had to say where I feel more connected to, I would say home will always be Zimbabwe, I feel more at peace when I'm there."
‘Brothels & Bottle Stores’ is set in 60s Senegal, delving into the lives of a pair of star-crossed lovers separated by fate but bound by a twisted and magnetic love.'
As a fashion writer and critic I am often confronted with how the ideas expressed by designers show up on the catwalk. Therefore I hung on the words of Mapfumo as I watched his collection. Moreover, his reference to Senegal in the 1960's might well be about a young nation discovering it's independence. Major political events often have influences on culture and the arts including fashion. In 1960 Senegal won it's long fought independence from France. The energy and vibrancy of new found freedoms is often reflected in arts and culture especially fashion. Since fashion is often the direct reflection of individuals, 1960's Senegal was a time of self expression. These ideas came across in this creative and fun collection. In this collection the designer is able to escalate the exuberance of the vibrant culture in Senegal.
DENZIL MAPFUMO
Mapfumo makes sportswear with elements of the unexpected. His new collection for S/S 2020 starts off with white, crisp and structured clothing. then leads to pattern and gender fluid elements. Young men in apron style dresses in leopard print and gingham with ties at the shoulders are presented a long side a women's traditional trench. This mix and match feel reflects Mapfumo's homeland of Zimbabwe. The African tradition of bold colors and patterns is present in this collection. In once colonized countries in Africa you often get a juxtaposition of traditional and European clothing. Here this is cleverly put across with the use of pattern, color and cut.
Flared trousers and bold prints are reminiscent of the 1960's. A bold patterned tee shirt adds to the 1960's and 70's vibe. The colors of the collection include bright red, blue, and sunset hues coupled with animal prints and stripes.
One of the standout pieces is a leopard print bomber style jacket and trousers, with a red tee underneath. In fact this look is reminiscent of the unisex looks of the 70's. The women's garments are less vital in color, however they are alluring and compelling in cut. The final image is a man in a wedding outfit. Certainly, the blending of cultures, the exploration of gender norms and an underlying sexuality makes this collection a force.
