PARIS S/S 2020, WHAT IS HAUTE COUTURE ? WHY I LOVE IT.

WHAT IS HAUTE COUTURE ?

PARIS S/S 2020

The Paris S/S 2020 Haute Couture shows have just wrapped up. But what do they mean by Haute Couture ? What is Haute Couture? The term Haute Couture is often thrown around with little regard to what it means. I have heard mention of a garment being haute couture in so many situations. However, haute couture is not a phrase that refers to any dress you may find beautiful, it is has a very specific meaning.

Certainly, my love for fashion includes my reverence and respect for Haute Couture. However, many from casual viewers to designers themselves do not understand this term. Therefore, I will attempt to set the record straight. In fact, when translated, couture is French for dressmaking, while haute means high.

WHAT IS HAUTE COUTURE?

THE HISTORY

The origins of Haute Couture are attributed to Charles Frederick Worth who in 1858 founded the first true Couture House at number 7, rue de la Paix in Paris. Before that Rose Bertin, Marie-Antoinette’s (Fashion Minister) had foreshadowed it, being the first to start freeing up the female body, all the while adorning her creations with embroidery, lace and rose petals.

1868: " Le Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture was first established as the safeguard of high-fashion. Designers were required to earn the right to label themselves a couture house according to certain specifications. These were later outlined in 1945."

Following a decision taken on January 23^rd 1945, the designation Haute Couture became a legally registered designation of origin.

Today members are selected by the Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture. To qualify as an official Haute Couture house, members must design made-to-order clothes for private clients, with more than one fitting, using an atelier (workshop) that employs at least fifteen full-time staff. They must also have twenty full-time technical workers in one of their workshops. Finally, Haute Couture houses must present a collection of no less than 50 original designs — both day and evening garments — to the public every season, in January and July.

WHAT IS HAUTE COUTURE?

PARIS S/S 2020

In our modern world of disposable fashion, where Giambattista Valli designs a line for H&M, who wears Haute Couture? The elite world of Haute Couture is the playground of approximately 4000 clients worldwide. Certainly, you need some extra jingle in your pocket as the average prices start at $10,000 for a day look to $100,000 for an evening gown. However, for me and hopefully you, it's about the inspiration. Seeing the extraordinary creativity and craftsmanship is what keeps us looking at these fashion houses. Hundreds of hours go into the creation of an Haute Couture garment. Therefore, I like to pay homage to those craftspeople and artisans whose talents are used in creating something of such beauty. I am in awe of the skills used to construct these amazing garments. I recommend watching the 2007 documentary to understand the world of Haute Couture.

The Secret World of Haute Couture (2007)

THE BEST OF HAUTE COUTURE

PARIS S/S 2020

Certainly, Paris is buzzing with the announcement of the retirement of Jean Paul Gaultier , and Balenciaga relaunching Haute Couture . Other changes of course are the loss of Karl Lagerfeld at Chanel and Clare Waight Keller channeling the majesty of the late Hubert de Givenchy who passed in 2018.

Jean Paul Gaultier

PARIS S/S 2020

Certainly, I was saddened to hear the great Jean Paul Gaultier was stepping down after a stellar career. In fact, what he showed at his final Haute Couture show was a remarkable retrospective of his brilliant career. Always the bad boy Gaultier sexualized fashion with his outrageous art, often referencing the gay underground and night club scene. I still cherish my Gaultier cologne bottle in the navy boy theme. Many of the ideas of gender fluidity, sexual exploration, and liberal humanity were advocated by Gaultier long before the conversations we are having today.

Ellie Saab

PARIS S/S 2020

Since, I look at fashion day in and day out, it is rare that a collection gives me such a thrill as this one did by Ellie Saab. Inspired by the fashions of both Europe and Mexico, “the regal past of both Europe and imperial Mexico are intertwined.”. Certainly , I am no minimalist, therefore I show my unabashed fervor for the excess of Elie Saab. As if gold dust had fallen from above the opulence, grandeur and artistry of this collection is an endorsement of Haute Couture in splendid style.

CHANEL

PARIS S/S 2020

Certainly, Chanel is synonymous with Haute Couture. In fact, this fashion house first under the guidance of Coco Chanel and later the artistry of Karl Lagerfeld is a principle cornerstone of Haute Couture. Moreover, the current creative director Virginie Viard is busy keeping up this tradition.

Viard brought to the Haute Gouture runway Paris S/S 2020, a retrospective of the life of Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel. Presented in a setting, recreating the convent where Chanel was raised, this collection combined a reverence for history . Unlike Lagerfeld who's mantra was to always look forward, Viard is putting her stamp on the House of Chanel by paying homage to it's creator and it's roots.

Using textiles and a palette that embrace sobriety, classicism and ease of wearing Viard has created a collection worthy of Chanel. The influences of school girls and nuns were certainly something Lagerfeld found frightful and uninspiring, however here Virginie Viard work them easily into the Haute Couture world. What I love about Haute Couture are the hidden details revealed at closer inspection, the exquisite embroidery , beading and materials that make the sometimes ordinary, extraordinary.

GIVENCHY

PARIS S/S 2020

It has been said that no one understood Haute Couture like Hubert Givenchy. Clare Waight Keller artistic director of Givenchy said this collection was a tribute to the House of Givenchy and she delved into the history of the house to create this collection. Inspired by the garden rooms planted at Sissinghurst Castle by Vita Sackville-West and by reading the passionate love letters between Sackville-West and Virginia Woolf. There is an LGBTQ+ element to this collection "A symphony of gardens as a love letter from woman to woman." Sculptural ,and strong this collection is an exploration of textures, lace and flowers. Waight Keller looked to the files of Givenchy's creations for Audrey Hepburn and the millinery of the 1950's to create these garments.

HAUTE COUTURE

PARIS S/S 2020

I have shown my four favorite collections from the Haute Couture Paris S/S 2020. Certainly, there are many other collections I could have covered to make my point . What is my point you may ask? My point is that Haute Couture is a fabulous source of inspiration for all who love fashion. Haute Couture is a very specific thing that only exists in Paris and is only available to the richest amongst us. However it is more than that, it is an example of the absolute best in fashion.

The skills that go into creating Haute Couture, are an example of the best craftsmanship in the world. Therefore, if you are a young designer , stylist or fashionista pay attention to Haute Couture. This by no means , means that Haute Couture designers have better ideas or that their designs are superior. However the finishing , details and construction are the absolute best.

WHAT'S HOT

Darling's here in Vancouver I've been out for my walk everyday for the last week. While there has been rain there also is a feel of spring in the air. Since spring is the season of renewal what's hot this week from my fashion files is spring shoes , and what says spring more than new shoes. I've had my eyes peeled and been in contact with all my style predictors and What's Hot is....

Chunky soles are the choice for this post and for your spring /summer looks. Looking at the instagram feeds of my favorite fashion gurls shows a lot of combat, hiker and chunky footwear. Certainly the clunky footwear trend is big and shows no signs of letting up. Therefore you can choose the fabulous looks from the runways or select the classic Dr. Marten's . The words thick, big and chunky are not only only used to describe your favorite chocolate bar but also your footwear.