RIP ANDRE' LEON TALLEY

I am deeply saddened to hear of the passing of Andre' Leon Talley. I have followed his career since I first learned of him in 1983. He had a career of firsts. Talley was the first black man to be a fashion editor. Talley was also the first black man to be a Paris bureau chief for a major fashion magazine. I have watched him interviewed many times, and he always showed his encyclopedic knowledge of fashion history. I urge you to watch the documentary The Gospel According to Andre'. Andre' also penned two books, ALT: A Memoir and his latest The Chiffon Trenches: A Memoir, which in his own words tell his life story. Both of these books are insightful and compelling. I have enclosed a link to purchase The Chiffon Trenches: A Memoir.

My affinity with Andre' Leon Talley is our shared love of fashion. Andre' showed his love of fashion in everything he did, both professionally and privately. Mr. Talley knew more about French couture than almost all the designers and historians. Furthermore, he had incredible instincts, which allowed him to draw connections between fashion and fine arts, celebrity, photography and, pop culture. I see the world of fashion in the same way. I am inspired and influenced by Andre' Leon Talley in my writing and vision.

ANDRE' LEON TALLEY

Over the last week, there have been many articles written about Andre' Leon Talley. However many articles are written, it is hard to capture the essence of the man. I have read and reread Andre's books and will attempt to give my tribute to this remarkable man.

Andre' was raised by his grandmother, in Durham North Carolina, and she remained his source of love and inspiration throughout his life. His Grandmother's love of "Sunday bests" and the ladies of his church with their elaborate hats and outfits sparked his love of fashion. As a youngster of nine years old, Andre' would go across town to the whites area to procure the latest issue of Vogue. Studying the pages of Vogue like a textbook Andre' learned the foundations that would serve him well.

 Andre' Leon Talley was a Francophile, meaning he loved everything, French. He received a scholarship to pursue French literature at the North Carolina Central University and Brown University, Rhode Island. Andre' had the eventual goal of teaching French. At Brown, he became entwined with an artsy, wealthy enclave of students from The Rhode Island School of Art and Design. These experiences started to open Andre' to a new world of possibilities. Armed with an introduction letter from one of the parents and the promise of a couch to sleep on, Andre' took an unpaid internship at the Metropolitan Museum Costume Institute.

The year was 1974 and, Andre' Leon Talley's life took an abrupt turn in the right direction. The Metropolitan Museum Costume Institute, was run by the great fashion editor Diana Vreeland ( a personal idol). The museum was where Vreeland curated extraordinary exhibits. Andre' soon stood out among the interns and, Miss Vreeland appointed him her assistant for the rest of the exhibition. Through Vreeland, "I learned to speak the language of style, fantasy, and literature," he wrote in The Chiffon Trenches.

 

ANDRE' LEON TALLEY - A CAREER IS BORN

The meeting and mentorship of Dianna Vreeland are key to the future career of Talley. He seized the opportunity to learn from Vreeland and relished her style and eccentricities. After the internship, Vreeland secured Andre's position as a receptionist for Andy Warhol's Interview Magazine. Andre' was introduced to New York's movers and shakers thru Warhol and the members of The Factory. While at Interview Andre' quickly moved from the receptionist to feature writer for the magazine's fashion stories. One of his first triumphs was a well-researched and sourced interview with Karl Lagerfeld. Lagerfeld took a shine to Talley, and gifted him custom shirts and mufflers after the interview. Fashion journalism is not only about what you know but also about the connections you make. Interview magazine served to position Andre well within the fashion scene.

ANDRE' LEON TALLEY 'S CAREER

Talley's first big break came when he was recruited by John Fairfield of Women's Wear Daily and, in 1978, sent him as bureau chief to Paris. Paris was a challenge for the black 6'6" flamboyant Talley. Andre' was fulfilled by his work. However, the French can be inhospitable. Talley eventually left to freelance.
In 1983 Grace Mirabella Vogue editor brought Talley on strength as the US news editor. Moreover, at the same time, Anna Wintour was made creative editor. In 1988 Wintour took over command at Vogue and, Andre' Leon Talley took her previous position as creative editor. Talley was a first for the masthead at Vogue, an openly gay African American man. In 1998 Talley was named editor-at-large.

Talley was an asset to Wintour because of his vast knowledge of fashion history, designers, and couture. Over his time at Vogue Andre' suffered the loss of his beloved Grandmother. This event triggered Andre's battle with food which led to excessive weight gain. Talley relates the struggle with his weight in detail in his memoir. He also tells of how he fell out of favor with Anna Wintour and she saw him as no longer relevant. He had fallen out of fashion, and in 2013, Vogue discarded him.

 

ANDRE' LEON TALLEY HIS PERSONAL LIFE

Andre' Leon Talley kept company with the top people of New York and international fashion. Among Andre's friends were the upper echelons of the fashion world. He had legions of fans and admirers from his appearances at the Met Gala and his time on America's Top Model. Furthermore, his charm, wit, kindness, and gregarious nature secured him many friends. He counted former first lady Michelle Obama, top designer Oscar de la Renta, supermodel Naomi Campbell, Lee Radziwill (sister of Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis) as close friends. He was also friends with Karl Lagerfeld, Alexander McQueen, and Venus Williams. Talley had a special relationship with many close female friends, which included Loulou de la Falaise and Betty Catroux Tina Chow, Paloma Picasso, and Diane von Furstenberg.

While Andre' was openly and flamboyantly gay, due to early childhood sexual abuse, he was unable to secure successful personal relationships. His work, social events, and his friends were his life.

 

IN CONCLUSION

I admire the work of Andre' Leon Talley. Furthermore, I am awed by his style. Perfected as a younger man and throughout his life, Andre' was a dandy. A dandy is a man who is excessively concerned about his clothes and appearance. This amazing man saw fashion not only as clothes but as spectacle. The early suits of Talley were the most beautifully tailored by the best Saville row tailors. His accessories included gloves, mufflers, furs, and hats. His later style included embellished caftans and capes of operatic scale custom made by the top designers. The extravagant wardrobe of Andre' Leon Talley is worthy of an exhibition of its own. Whether Andre' was holding court at The Met Gala, or eyeing the latest couture creations, his presence will be greatly missed. In a word Andre' was majestic. He had a lofty dignity so rare in the world today.