UNSERTEN

Unserten returns to Vancouver fashion Week after it's tour de force showing at VFW F/W 22. I anticipated a great show from this Japanese design collective that won my heart with its last show.

UNSERTEN is a Tokyo-based, avant-garde elegant menswear & unisex fashion brand founded in 2020.
UNSERTEN is inspired by the feeling of uncertainty. People desire stability through their lives but it is, now more than ever, a fact that we live in a rapidly changing world full of uncertainties. Yet it is often those uncertainties that are key to opening new possibilities and making the world a more diverse and welcoming place.
UNSERTEN consists of an international team of designers from different backgrounds, cultures and ethnicities, each having their distinct impact on our designs and philosophy. It is through this collaboration that we hope to convey our vision of an inclusive, global and bright future, no matter the uncertainties we might face.

Excerpt taken from UNSERTEN website

UNSERTEN- A REVIEW

Unserten brings its latest collection to Vancouver Fashion Week after much success at its Global Fashion Collective showing at NYFW. This new collection was inspired by the black and white photography of Japanese photographer Moriyama Daido and the harsh blurry “Are‑Bure‑Boke” style.

The collection presented by UNSERTEN is an artistic, very wearable collection. The clothing on the runway is shown by male models. But in this critic's eyes, the garments are gender-neutral. Unserten shows clothing that features looks from casual to well-cut and refined suiting. The first garment down the runway is a sheer top with poetry emblazoned on the sides. The designer returns to this poetry as a theme throughout the collection. With a color palette comprised primarily of black, it is interrupted by a flash of red, green, and white. It's little details that make these clothes so special. A component adding detail is the intricate use of silver chains, suspended on the garments like belts, chokers, and necklaces. The designer's styling includes chains and jewelry suspended from the model's faces.

A standout piece is a voluminous ruffled shirt with black trousers. Classic tailoring ,is turned on its head with a classic double-breasted suit in an unconventional fabric of green and orange-red. A black velvet burnout fabric turns a tux-style suit into sexy loungewear. Other tailoring includes cutouts, ruffles, and poetic verses scrolled on fabric. There is a pull between feminine and masculine. The masculine sportswear pieces are at home in this collection because they create a tension between the more feminine avant-garde. A sheer shirt with pussy bow is shown with shorts. The designer juxtaposes hard and soft, airy lightweight with structure, and shiny and matte. Much like the photography that inspired this collection the palette plays with light and tone. "ARE BURE BOKE" means "a rough grain of silver salt, a shaky image, and a blurred subject."

IN CONCLUSION 

I was thrilled to see the second collection from this fashion-forward brand. UNSERTEN is a label that challenges gender norms with its cutting-edge pieces. The opinion that fashion is art may vary by the observer, however, when they combine, it is worthy of recognition. UNSERTEN creates a balance of art and fashion. I give UNSERTEN high praise for an artistic and wearable collection. As we witness the progression of this brand, I for one, cannot wait to see where they take us next.

UNSERTEN WEBSITE

INSTAGRAM

CIAO FOR NOW J. ANDREW