VANCOUVER INDIGENOUS FASHION WEEK OPENS WITH THE RED DRESS EVENT

On Monday, November 20th, 2023, the Queen Elizabeth Theater in Vancouver hosted a magnificent event celebrating the diverse and vibrant Indigenous cultures through the captivating mediums of music, dance, art, and fashion. Marking the commencement of Vancouver Indigenous Fashion Week (VIFW), the opening night is a mesmerizing gala known as The Red Dress Event.

VANCOUVER INDIGENOUS FASHION WEEK

RED DRESS EVENT

The Red Dress Event honors the memory of Indigenous murdered and missing girls, women, 2 spirited and LGBTQIA+ members of the community. This is my second time attending VIFW and I am honored to witness such an extraordinary event. The evening opened with a moving and often emotional dance by Butterflies in Spirit. Butterflies in Spirit is a dance group founded by Lorelei Williams , made up of Indigenous women, girls and 2S who dance hip hop, contemporary and decolonial Indigenous dance for Missing and Murdered Indigenous Women Girls and Two-Spirit people. After the moving tributes It was time for some fashion.

VANCOUVER INDIGENOUS FASHION WEEK

THE FASHION

VIFW was founded in 2017 by model and entrepreneur Joleen Mitton. Mitton a Plains Cree built on her own modeling career to form VIFW and her company Super Naturals Modeling, an indigenous modeling agency. Armed with the passion to give a platform for Indigenous fashion artists Mitton has fought for seven years to bring this incarnation of VIFW to fruition. Building every year VIFW is now front and center on the main stage of the Queen Elizabeth Theater ( from its previous home in the lobby).

While I was initially drawn to VIFW for the fashion I soon realized this event is so much more. At the heart of this fashion week is community , family, heritage and culture. Of course fashion is the primary part of this event. The runway shows were not only a display of artistic talent but also a platform for designers to share their stories, traditions, and perspectives. Each garment told a unique narrative, weaving together the threads of cultural heritage and contemporary style. From intricately beaded pieces to modern interpretations of traditional regalia, the designs on display reflected the diversity and dynamism of Indigenous fashion.

VIFW provides a platform for both emerging and established Indigenous designers to showcase their work. Rising stars in the fashion world stand alongside seasoned veterans, creating a harmonious blend of innovation and tradition. This inclusive approach not only celebrates the diversity within Indigenous fashion but also fosters a sense of community and collaboration. Following are four designers I profiled from day one of VIFW.

YOLANDA SKELTON

I'm proud to call this dynamic designer my friend. Yolanda Skelton is a textile artist who is known for designing pieces that reach the individual through vibrant color, unique shapes and her use of rich imagery. Skelton's label Suglit Lukxs Designs combines her rich Indigenous heritage with modern chic styling. Inspired from stories told to Yolanda by her maternal grandmother Lily Jackson, she incorporates Gitxsan images and stories into her garments.

Skelton's collection is entitled “Flight for the Earth.” The artist is focused on the plight of endangered species that are threatened by human and environmental factors. " I am focusing on various animals that fly. I am hoping to bring attention to how various mining practices, oil drilling, pesticides, and microfibers are impacting our winged creatures. For example, without the Bees we will struggle to survive, as they pollinate approximately 35 % of the world's food supply and three-fourths of the world’s flowering plants. So the first challenge I gave myself for the collection was the task of Indigenizing my closet using these animal motifs."

What came down the runway was a collection ranging from a sophisticated red day suit to a glittering butterfly. Yolanda showed both women's and men's garments . A silver caplet at the shoulder worn by dynamic model Owen Unruh opened the collection to thunderous applause. Another standout piece is a leather maxi coat emblazoned on the back with a teal and gold heron design. Overall the collection uses a wide range of materials and techniques including Skelton's exquisite appliques. This collection shows the designers respect for her culture and environment with attention paid to the use of repurposed garments and upcycled materials.

https://www.sugiitlukxsdesigns.com

OCEAN KIANA

Ocean Kiana is a Nishinaabe woodland-style artist from Northwestern Ontario, raised by the Matriarchs of her family. Her Nishinaabe name is Waabshki Memegwans, meaning White Butterfly, and she belongs to the Wolf Clan.

I met Ocean backstage at VIFW before her show. In a relaxed conversation, we spoke of her love for crafting, which was the impetus for her becoming a designer. Ocean told me, "I originally designed this collection for Paris and really wanted to use a color that comes from my ancestors, which is red. My ancestors led me here tonight to showcase this primarily red collection at the Red Dress Event." Ocean explained how her design choices were inspired by overcoming the grief of losing family members. "Red is a spiritual color for me and my ancestors, and I use it to show love". Ocean also expressed her inspiration from Pow Wow dancing regalia and "round dance fashion", which she heightened and evolved for the runway.

Ocean sent down the catwalk a stunning collection that used black as a background for her brilliant red decorations. Traditional silhouettes are next to figure-hugging patterned dresses. My favorite pieces are a series of black skirts with brilliantly colored flowers. Ocean successfully blended the traditional with the contemporary to create a breathtaking collection teeming with the designer's handcrafted details.

https://oceankiana.com

HELEN ORO

Helen Oro, Designer/Owner of The Label Helen Oro Designs is from the Pelican Lake First Nation band. She is recognized as an international designer and entrepreneur making waves in the fashion industry. Helen wishes to share how beadwork can be worn, styled, felt and seen. Sharing her culture and contemporary approach through her creations.

Helen Oro and I had a great conversation before her show at the Red Dress Event. Helen expressed that her collection was predominantly red, fitting the theme of missing and murdered women. Oro dedicates her collection to her sister, who has passed away, and she wears a t-shirt with her sister's picture. Helen says, "A lot of my pieces in this collection are reflections of my sister. Her name, Eagle Woman, is an influence throughout the garments. One of the dresses was made by my 11-year-old nephew in honor of his mother."
Helen stresses, "I love doing beadwork but I want to use beading unconventionally. The beading I do might be a beaded chest piece or harness. I like to think outside the box." Helen is an artist who uses her art to tell stories, encourage healing, and put meaningful pieces out into the world.

From the first garment to the last, Helen Oro expressed her desire to create show-stopping looks. These are garments made for the red carpet, fashion editorials, and music videos. Helen's larger-than-life pieces shone on the runway. The influence of regalia wear is evident in a red tulle gown with a sparkling beaded chest piece. Other looks incorporate beaded sunglasses, hats, and even gas masks. The overall effect is joyous, full of glamour, and fashion-forward. Helen challenges tradition while filling her creations with cultural references.

https://helenorodesigns.wordpress.com

REBECCA BAKER GRENIER

Rebecca is of Kwakiuł, Musgamagw Dzawada'enuxw, and Sḵwx̱wú7mesh ancestry and is an Indigenous artist with a BA from the University of British Columbia with a Major in the First Nations and Indigenous Studies Program. Rebecca apprenticed for fashion design under established Indigenous designer and artist, Himikalas Pam Baker.

I was excited to sit down Rebecca Baker Grenier after recently seeing her show at Vancouver Fashion Week. I opened our conversation with the question what is this collection about? Rebecca told me " My collection “We Are Warriors” is inspired by our ancestral warriors, who were strong, courageous, and persistent in protecting our villages, communities, and culture. Indigenous people have always fought to resist colonization and safeguard our communities. This collection is in honor of their strength and recognizes all of us who are still fighting in resistance to colonialism and rebuilding our cultures through acts of resurgence. It is necessary to ensure the healing of our families, communities, lands, and culture, so that we have something to pass on to our children."

The collection that Rebecca sent down was an exciting interpretation of her heritage through the eyes of the 21st century. Without any pre-story, the warrior theme came across with her strong visual representations. The color palette of vibrant teal, blues, and copper was used to create sleek contemporary clothing accessorized with metallic breastplates, wooden slats, and laser-cut pieces representing armor. This is a sleek contemporary collection that combines heritage and culture.

https://www.rebeccabakergrenier.com